Good morning my travelers! Hopefully there are some surfers out there that can relate to this post. However, to my non-surfers, these are still great lessons in life. I have only been surfing for a year, but it had changed the way I live. Surfing continues to teach me something new every time I go out and battle the force of the waves. After every wipeout, I still am eager to keep going and these are the main reasons why.
1. You only need 30 seconds of courage to change a moment
So many mornings I have stood with my surfboard in hand and just watch the freezing cold water lick the bottom of my feet. That icy cold water is the hardest thing to jump into and some days I really do not want to get in. But, take a deep breath and sprint. It takes 30 seconds to fully be in the water and a minute to adjust to it. After that, the hardest part is over and you can enjoy the ocean from your surfboard. In life if we just take those 30 seconds to sprint we can change entire moments; meeting people, going places, being somebody you want to be.
2. That anxiety? It means your living
The ocean is a powerful source. It has given life and it has taken life. When you are being washing machined by a wave or pop out of the water just to see another ginormous wave crashing onto you is scary! Your heart starts to beat faster and it becomes harder to control your breath. But, I learned to love this feeling and use it to my advantage. The adrenaline that begins pumping through my veins become my engine. I am motivated to fight a force that is so scary, but you realize once you embrace that feeling you are no longer fighting the force, but ridding the force. Running out of the water grasping to control your breath, you know you just concerned a fear and it made us feel alive. Isn't the feeling of truly living what we chase throughout life?
3. Be patient
The best waves are not going to be in every set. Sometimes we go out there and only catch one or two waves and spend most of the time in the water waiting for the perfect wave to go for. You have to sit there and wait for the perfect wave. Sometimes getting burned or sometimes shivering. But the wait is always worth it. We can easily apply this to life. We tend to get caught up on the idea of opportunity and forget to be patient and wait for the opportunity that is perfect for you. I am not saying sit around and wait for the opportunity to knock on your door. But instead, I am saying grasp that opportunity, but not all opportunities are going to be the best for you. When you realize the opportunity was not right for you. If you just want to grasp another one, you can always go back and try again for another wave.
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